14 Grand Seiko Watches You Need to See: Review & Showcase (Part 11)

Selecting only a dozen Grand Seiko models to showcase is incredibly hard. And that's not to praise the diligent work behind the preparation of this article (well, maybe a little) but to reiterate what we all already know: that the Grand Seiko catalog is filled with exemplary models.

To make this possible, this showcase features the most wanted GS models between 2022 and 2024. The watches are grouped relative to their lug width and not in any hierarchical order. Let's dive in!

The Grand Seiko 19mm lug width group

1. Grand Seiko SBGJ273 Yuka Momiji

The striking red dial is GS SBGJ273's biggest asset and a love at first sight. Which turns into a steady relationship upon experiencing its full radiance. The design of the dial is inspired by the Yuka Momiji effect, an interplay of color and light associated with traditional Japanese buildings where shades of maple leaves red in autumn are reflected off the lacquered wooden floors. The vertical lines on the dial make the impression even more lifelike and complete the overall traditional appeal.

Grand Seiko Yuka Momiji comes from the Elegance collection and also features the following specs:

• 39.5mm stainless steel case,14.1mm thick, with a push-pull crown at 3 o’clock
• box-shaped sapphire crystal glass
• 46.9mm lug to lug
• Caliber 9S86, with a 55h power reserve

Grand Seiko SBGJ273 Yuka Momiji, fits standard 19mm watch straps

2. Grand Seiko SLGH013G

This Hi-Beat 36000 watch from the Heritage collection comes in a 40mm wide and 11.7mm thick ever-brilliant stainless steel case that boasts a PREN value 1.7 times higher than the standard stainless steel used in most high-class watches. The Zaratsu polishing implemented on the upper surfaces of the case secures a durable and elegant smooth and malformation-free mirror finish. The light blue dial color and texture are inspired by the gradually melting snow on Mount Iwate (the infamous peak that overlooks the  Shizukuishi -  the studio where GSs are made) during spring.

Other specs are:

• Sapphire crystal glass
• 47.2mm lug to lug
• Caliber 9SA5 with 80h power reserve
• 10 bar water resistance

Grand Seiko SLGH013G, compatible with 19mm watch bands

3. Grand Seiko SBGW231G

A perfect epitome of the Elegance series, it radiates timeless classic design. A tad smaller case houses a creamy white dial with silver-toned dauphine hands, diamond cut, just like the markers, for an improved light reflection. A dress watch with a vintage feel in all its glory.

Having the thinnest case of the entire featured bunch adds even more to the comfortable wearability GS's are famous for.  Other specs are on pair:

• Zaratsu polish of the case adds to the classic appeal
• box-shaped sapphire crystal glass
• 44.3mm lug to lug
• Caliber 9S64, with hairspring technology and the MEMS technology escapement with 72h power reserve

Grand Seiko SBGW231G, accepts all 19mm watch straps

4. Grand Seiko SBGM221G

Another representative of the Elegance series, this GMT watch is all about contrast. The soft-curved case sides and rounded edges of the lugs are contrasted by the razor-sharp bezel and the sharp finishes of the hands and indexes. A slightly gentler contrasting effect is achieved by combining the creamy-colored dial with the discreet blue of the GMT hand and brand name writing.

Being a GMT and implementing the aforementioned contrasting approach, the Grand Seiko SBGM221G somewhat steps out of the Elegance group because it's not what you expect from a dress watch. On the other hand, that makes it even more appealing to some GS fans. Other specs are:

• 39.5mm stainless steel case, 13.7mm thick
• box-shaped sapphire crystal glass
• 46.9mm lug to lug
• Caliber 9S66 with 72h power reserve

Grand Seiko SBGM221G, perfect for 19mm watch bands

The Grand Seiko 20mm lug width group

1. Grand Seiko SBGA211 Snowflake

The Snowflake is a GS Spring Drive model and one of the GS watches that are most easily recognized. The nickname originates from its dial design, which is inspired by the color and texture of snowflakes falling around the Hotaka mountains, where the studio where the craftsmen create it is located.

Another of Snoflake's specific features is the high-intensity titanium case. Although fairly dominant in size (41mm in diameter and 12.5mm thick), it is about 30 percent lighter than its stainless steel relatives. Add a Caliber 9R65 Spring Drive with a 72h power reserve to the equation and get a truly special GS.

Other specs are:

• Dual-curved sapphire crystal glass
• 49mm lug to lug
• 10bar water resistance

Grand Seiko SBGA211 Snowflake, takes standard 20mm straps

2. Grand Seiko SBGE305 Sport Spring Drive GMT

A 72h power reserve Spring Drive GMT GS? Yes, this limited edition Sport Collection GMT celebrates the 20th anniversary of the 9R movement in a meaningful manner. The dark red dial is inspired by the vivid summer sunrises over Mount Hotaka, a mountain range where Shinshu Watch Studio is located. The sunburst dial finish, with a contrasting radiate black ceramic GMT bezel and silver-toned hands and indexes, makes the SBGE305 a genuine head-turner.

Other notable specs are:

• 40.5mm stainless steel case, 14.7mm thick, with a screw-down crown
• Dual-curved sapphire crystal glass
• Caliber 9R66
• 48.7mm lug to lug
• 20 bar water resistance

Grand Seiko SBGE305 Sport Spring Drive GMT, uses 20mm watch bands

3. Grand Seiko SBGH343G

Nicknamed Sakura-Wakaba, this Heritage collection GS is characterized by a silvery green dial that is inspired by the end of spring light-green young leaves of a cherry tree that is a well-known symbol of Japan. The patterned dial features previously portrayed dauphine-style hands and matching baton indexes, all in a discreet silver shade color that elegantly complements the subtle dial color. The openness of the dial is further enhanced by the absence of a bezel and the infamous Zaratsu polishing, and one would hardly guess that this watch has the smallest diameter case of all 14 watches featured.

Other specs are as follows:

• 38mm High-intensity titanium case, 12.9mm thick, with a screw-down crown
• box-shaped sapphire crystal glass
• Caliber 9S85, with 55h power reserve
• 44.7mm lug to lug
• 10 bar water resistance

Grand Seiko SBGH343G, made for 20mm straps

The Grand Seiko 21mm lug width group

Grand Seiko SBGH295 Sōkō Frost

The 21mm lug width group has a single representative but is surely memorable. Its design aims to build another link between nature and GS watches. It's a US-exclusive Special EdiGrand Seiko SLGT003 Kodotion, one of two new ones.

Sōkō Frost was nicknamed after the inspiration behind the dial color. The dial's soft-colored palette transitions from soft silver to baby blue, and the idea is to portray the reflection of a clear blue sky over the sea of Japan on the first autumn frost. As always, the dial was perfectly executed, with the blue second hand adding to the overall atmosphere.

Other specs are:

• 40mm stainless steel case, 12.9mm thick
• Box-shaped sapphire crystal glass
• Caliber 9S85, with 55h power reserve
• 47mm lug to lug
• 10 bar water resistance

Grand Seiko SBGH295 Sōkō Frost, designed for 21mm bands

The Grand Seiko 22mm lug width group

1. Grand Seiko SLGH005 White Birch

White Birch comes in a 40mm stainless steel case, 11.7mm thick, and is another GS hi-beat Caliber watch, this time powered by Caliber 9SA5 boasting a staggering 80h power reserve. SLGH005 is a part of the Evolution 9 collection, also finished with a famous Zaratsu polish like some other of our featured watches, and shares some other notable specs, such as:

• Box-shaped sapphire crystal glass
• 47mm lug to lug
• 10 bar water resistance

However, its dial makes it easily distinguishable from other GSs. It depicts the texture and color of the white birch bark in lifelike detail. The inspiration behind it lies in the beauty of the white birch forest surrounding Seiko's Shizukuishi studio, where all their mechanical watches are made.

Grand Seiko SLGH005 White Birch, fits 22mm watch straps

2. Grand Seiko SLGT003 Kodo

If you're looking for an authentic appeal GS, Kodo should be at the top of your list for several reasons. Kodo (the Japanese word for heartbeat) got its name from the distinctive sound its unique mechanism makes. The sixteenth note feel of the Kodo Constant-force Tourbillon revolutionary mechanism is created as a combination of a tourbillon and a constant-force mechanism as one unit on a single axis, the former rotating at eight beets per second and the latter at one beat per second.

The looks are equally original and impressive. Both the front and back views show the operation of the mechanism and all other parts in full detail, creating an unforgettable impression. This is exactly what's expected from a watch that is limited to 20 pieces, and that goes for six figures.

Other important specs are:

• 43.8mm Brilliant Hard Titanium and Platinum case, 12.9mm thick with a Platinum and Sapphire crystal caseback
• Box-shaped sapphire crystal glass
• 50.6mm lug to lug
• 10 bar water resistance

Grand Seiko SLGT003 Kodo, takes 22mm watch bands

The Grand Seiko 23mm lug width group

1. Grand Seiko SLGC001 Tentagraph

Speaking of premiers and GS's, Tentagraph is the first mechanical chronograph from the Grand Seiko Studio Shizukuishi, Caliber 9SC5, with a 72-hour power reserve. That makes it the longest-running of the 10-beat chronographs available today.

It is housed in a lightweight titanium case that is 43.8mm wide and 13.8mm thick. It features two pushers and a crown with beveled edges. The same edge treatment is used for subdial surrounds, creating a subtle but impactful 3D effect. The overall dial design commemorates the greatness of Mt. Iwate, the dominant peak visible from Shikuishi studio.

Other specs are:

• Black ceramic bezel engraved with a tachymeter scale
• Box-shaped sapphire crystal glass
• 51.5mm lug to lug
• 10 bar water resistance

Grand Seiko SLGC001 Tentagraph, compatible with 23mm straps

2. Grand Seiko SLGA023 Diver Blue Ushio

Japan is located in one of the world’s most diverse ocean regions. Ushio, meaning tide in Japanese, is a natural inspiration for Grand Seiko watches. The texture and deep blue color of SLGA023's dial pay tribute to the ever-turning ocean waves characteristic of the dynamic coastal waters of Japan.

Hands are of different shapes and sizes, and combined with elevated markers of contrasting color, construct a dial with increased visibility. That feature is always welcome, particularly for divers with water resistance, such as SLGA023.

Other notable specs are:

• 43.8 High-intensity titanium case, 13.8mm thick, with a unidirectional ceramic bezel
• Sapphire crystal glass
• Caliber 9RA5, with 80h power reserve
• 51.8mm lug to lug
• 20bar water resistance

Grand Seiko SLGA023 Diver Blue Ushio, accepts 23mm watch bands

3. Grand Seiko SBGE307 Tokyo Lion

When the main inspiration for a watch is the one behind the brand's logo, it must have a special place in the catalog. Tokio Lion from the Sport Collection has all the common features of its living relative: it is dominant, masculine, energetic, and proud-looking. This time, the lion is moved to the front and takes the central place, the dial.

The champagne color and texture of the dial are a tribute to the lion's mane. The hands and markers are bold, and the red GMT hand and inscription contrast nicely. Next, the lugs are shaped to portray the lion's claws, sloped and extra slopped, without jeopardizing any comfort. Given the dominant case size (44.5mm diameter and 14.9mm thick) , choosing high-intensity titanium as a case material further added to the prolonged wearability of the watch with no obstacles.

Other notable specs are:

• Dual-curved sapphire crystal glass
• Caliber 9R66, with 72h power reserve
• 50mm lug to lug
• 20 bar water resistance

Grand Seiko SBGE307 Tokyo Lion, uses standard 23mm straps

4. Grand Seiko SLGA015G

Here's a special-looking diver to complete the showcase of great new GSs and the nature inspiration behind them. The dial's deep black color and texture are inspired by the Black Stream, a nickname for the Kuroshio Current. It's one of the world's strongest and largest ocean streams, flowing towards the Arctic Pacific, causing turbulent and frequently violent tides that turn the water black and wavy.

The brushed surface of the hands and polished edges of the markers secure the dial's perfect readability in all conditions. Divers always welcome a 120-click unidirectional ceramic bezel, particularly if they plan on diving under the surface of the waters run by the Black Stream.

The remaining notable features are:

• 43.8mm high-intensity titanium case, 13.8mm thick, with a screw-down crown
• Sapphire crystal glass
• Caliber 9RA5, with 80h power reserve
• 51.5mm lug to lug
• 20 bar water resistance

Grand Seiko SLGA015G, for all 23mm watch bands

Common ground for the showcased Grand Seiko watches

All featured GS watches have several fundamental things in common: they draw inspiration from nature, are made with supreme precision and craftsmanship using ultimate quality materials, and all are built to last. Due to that, they often become a single go-to watch that their owners were at all times.

Here's where another quality all showcased GSs unanimously have comes to spotlight, a great potential of pairing with different types of watchstraps, which in return allows for creating a perfect combination for any setting and ocassion. The following photos feature additional 5 Grand Seiko models depicting their ability to be paired with complementary watch straps.

Grand Seiko Heritage Collection GMT 44GS ASIA LE600 SBGJ253, paired with a BOR style Asteroid Stainless Steel - Brushed with Polished Center Watch Strap for the ultimate masculine appeal.

A natural continuation - stainless steel in all its shine and glory with Grand Seiko Heritage Collection GMT 44GS 55th Anniversary LE SBGJ255 matched by an ideally fitting 19mm Brushed Hexad III Watch Strap

The sporty, elegant, and manly appeal of Grandseiko GMT SBGJ227 Hi-Beat paired with a 19mm Super-JUB II Watch Strap, Stainless Steel - Brushed with Polished Center

The ultimate elegance of Grand Seiko SBGR307 is further elevated when it is complemented by a 21mm Khaki Alcantara Fabric Quick Release Watch Strap, with Beige Stitching

It can't get any more formal and comfortable at the same time as when a Grand Seiko SBGR311 is paired with a 21mm Quick Release Tapered Milanese Mesh Watch Strap.

Speaking of subtle elegance, the Grand Seiko SBGR311, in pair with a 21mm MiLTAT Genuine Olive Brown Distressed Leather Watch Strap with Beige Stitching, always comes up in conversation.

Written by S.K., images by Toni and others as noted