Omega Speedmaster Caliber 321, How to Solve a Dilemma Through in-Depth Research

Remember the excitement you experience while looking for a new watch to add to your collection? Add the enhancer that you have a substantial budget and are in a position to ponder on one of those special models you always dreamt of having. Finally, imagine you end up indecisive between two similar models at first glance, but there's more than double the difference in price.

Like one beautiful member of the Speedmaster family, the Apollo XVII celebrates lunar magic this Christmas with the beautiful Entwine watch band, perfectly matching its celestial elegance.

That's precisely what happened to a close friend of mine. He narrowed his search to a final choice between the Omega Speedmaster Caliber 321 and the Omega Moonwatch Professional. He could not fathom why the Caliber 321 goes for around 15k while the Moonwatch is listed for 7k. However, both are fairly similar in appearance.

The omega calibre 321, a timekeeping legend that stands unrivaled

That inspired this in-depth research on what makes the Omega Speedmaster Caliber 321 so special, which yielded three crucial advantages over the Moonwatch Professional:

• Caliber
• Production process and volume
• Special touches of watchmaking mastery incorporated into individual elements of the Speedmaster

Here's what research revealed and why the feeling of somewhat being robbed for paying double for Caliber 321 that existed in the beginning quickly and firmly diminished as the research about that special watch progressed.

The Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Calibre 321 (Ref. 311.30.40.30.01.001) with its transparent caseback, showcasing the legendary movement.

Unique pedigree of Caliber 321

If there is one caliber that has been a history-maker from day one, that would surely be the 321. It began as a collaboration between Lemania and Omega to create a new chronograph movement. The first iteration of what's to become Caliber 321 saw the light of day in 1946 as Caliber 27 CHRO 12 Caliber. CHRO stands for the chronograph, 27 for its 27mm width, and 12 for the measurable chronograph hours.

Omega and Tissot established the SSIH in 1930, later joined by Lemania. The iconic Omega Caliber 321 movement was developed and produced at the Manufacture Lemania factory.

Caliber 321 premiered in 1949 within Broad Arrow's reference CK2915 watch as the first Omega chronograph movement to feature a column wheel design. The next iconic step happened in 1957, a year when Omega introduced its first Speedmaster, reference CK2998. Regular users and experts, including NASA, noticed its reliability, precision, and durability under any circumstances.

The Caliber 321 debuted in 1949 in the Omega Speedmaster CK2915, the first Omega chronograph to feature a column wheel design.

The Omega Speedmaster CK2998 is legendary for being the first Omega chronograph powered by the Caliber 321 worn in space during the Sigma 7 mission in 1962

Such features earned Caliber 321 and Omega Speedster a place in mankind's history. The Speedmaster reference ST105.003, powered by Caliber 321, was the watch of choice for the first US spacewalk in 1965, sitting firmly on the wrist of astronaut Ed White throughout the historic event.

The Omega Speedmaster reference ST 105.003 is renowned for its role as the watch worn by Ed White during the first American spacewalk in 1965, also powered by the Caliber 321

Another Omega Speedmaster, reference ST105.003, earned legendary status. Buzz Aldrin and Neil Armstrong wore it on the infamous 1969 moon landing expedition.

Neil Armstrong and Buzz Aldrin (right), Apollo 11 astronauts, wore Omega Speedmaster watches powered by Caliber 321 during their historic moon landing on July 20, 1969. Aldrin's watch was the first worn on the lunar surface.

Caliber 321 retired after the moon landing expedition, and Caliber 861 took its place as the driving force behind Speedmasters. When it was time to celebrate the 50th anniversary of the Apollo 11 1969 lunar landing, Caliber 321 came back in style in 2019 as a driving force of the Speedmaster Caliber 321, reference 311.93.42.30.99.001.

In celebration of the 50th anniversary of the Apollo 11 lunar landing in 1969, the Omega Caliber 321 made a stylish return in 2019 as the heart of the Speedmaster Caliber 321, reference 311.93.42.30.99.001.

It was a long-awaited return, warmly welcomed by Caliber 321 fans worldwide. Such eager acceptance did not go unnoticed. Omega released six new watches powered by Caliber 321 in the last five years.

The reborn Caliber 321

The newest 321 is more than a mere reincarnation of the original 321. Although it kept to the original specifications based on digitally scanned Speedmaster from the Apollo 17 mission, the new 321 also underwent extensive research and reconstruction within a dedicated workshop.

Since it is a manually-wound lateral clutch column wheel caliber, 321 does not have a winding rotor. Thanks to that, the owners of the latest editions of the Speedmasters that feature Caliber 321 can enjoy the view of the entire movement and its operation through the transparent sapphire crystal caseback.

The latest Omega Speedmaster editions with Caliber 321 feature a transparent sapphire crystal caseback, allowing enthusiasts to admire the intricate movement and its operation.

Next, Omega added plated elements to the new Caliber 321 to mimic the look and feel of the copper finish of the old 321 and utterly succeeded. Finally, the power reserve is now 55h, compared to 44h of the original.

The production process and volume

The dedication to every detail and time invested into the production of the re-released Caliber 321 is a feature that deserves additional elaboration. Not only are they made in a dedicated workshop, but each caliber is assembled and fine-tuned by a single horology master.

However, the exclusiveness does not end there. Each caliber is then disassembled and assembled again, naturally, by the same master. Cleaning, adjusting, and fine-tuning included.

Finally, servicing is also done at the same workshop in Bienne, again by the same watchmaker. Such modus operandi guarantees utmost precision and novelty on the one hand, but it also limits the production volume. Even though Speedmaster Caliber 321 is not a limited series watch, its production is limited to 1000 to 2000 watches a year.

Special touches of watchmaking mastery

The final on the list of upper-hand factors of the Speedmaster Caliber 321 over the Speedmaster Moonwatch is the exclusive touches of finesse incorporated into individual elements of the watch. To begin with, the Omega logo is laser engraved, and the dial is galvanized instead of being varnished. Both differences add to the step dial effect (the minute track resides lower than the rest of the dial) and further improve its readability.

he 2020 Speedmaster Calibre 321 (left) with sapphire crystal and ceramic bezel meets its inspiration, the 1960s 105.003 "Ed White" (right) with Hesalite crystal and aluminum bezel. Same spirit, different eras.

Another touch that improves dial visibility is the absence of the "milky ring" around the perimeter. This happens thanks to a black metallization underneath the sapphire crystal's flat surface. To honor the original 105.003 lunar landing watch and round up the increased readability features, the hands are of baton design and filled with light-beige Super-LumiNova. The latter goes hours marker and the subdials, too.

The straight lug profile design faithful to the original 105.003 results in case dimensions that are smaller than those of the Professional Speedmasters. Coupled with a solid link strap that measures 19mm between the lugs and features a modern and more robust clasp with safety pushers, but still lighter and thinner than the one on a standard Moonwatch, you get a watch of superior comfort.

The icing on the cake is the close reproduction of the original buckle featuring the vintage Ω logo, a unique feature to the rest of the Speedmaster reproduction.

In Conclusion

Yes, the list price of the Omega Speedmaster Caliber 321 commands more than double the price of a standard Speedmaster, yet the difference becomes justifiable once you scratch the surface and study the important details that separate their designs. Taking into account all the authentic and superior craftsmanship incorporated into the design, production, assembly, and servicing processes of the Omega Speedmaster Caliber 321, the price difference becomes both understandable and justified. When faced with such a significant investment decision, it's these distinguishing details that make all the difference. When you add the originality of the case and prolonged wearability comfort to the equation, the verdict is all in favor.

Italian craftsmanship shines in both straps - the left's vintage-inspired lasered leather for Speedmaster Professional and the right's classic horse leather for Apollo XVII, perfect companions for holiday gatherings.

Bold orange Alcantara watch band brings sporty holiday cheer to the classic Speedmaster Professional, perfect for winter adventures.

While I haven't owned a Caliber 321, the Speedmaster family DNA shines through its siblings - the Omega Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch 3573.50.00 and OMEGA Speedmaster Moonwatch Apollo XVII 311.30.42.30.03.001 - which we've shown here dressed up in holiday mood as Christmas approaches. Their exceptional quality and craftsmanship undoubtedly extend to this timepiece as well, making it a worthy consideration for that special addition to your collection.

Written by S.K., images by Toni and others as noted

External References

• Omega Speedmaster CK2915-3
• The Best There Ever Was — Omega Calibre 321, the #MoonCalibre
• Ed White: The First American to Walk in Space
• Le menu lunaire de Neil Armstrong et Buzz Aldrin
• The Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch 321 Platinum
• What Makes The Omega Speedmaster Calibre 321 So Special?
• How Does the Speedmaster Calibre 321 Compare To The Original 105.003