Mystery Dial Watches: A Timeless Guide to Secret Watch Faces and Hidden Designs
A watch dial is always among the top reasons someone opts for a particular watch. For those looking for something truly special, here's a suggestion. There is a special one that has tickled the imagination of both watch enthusiasts and casual observers since it was introduced to the public in the 19th century-the infamous mystery dial.
The mesmerizing effect is achieved by the original concept behind the mystery dial's appeal and the intriguing design that creates the illusion of floating hands. The Ernest Borel Automatic Men's Cocktail Watch is a prime example of such a concept and design. Before a detailed portrait of this authentic watch, let's touch a bit on the history of the mystery dial.
The fundamental brown shade of Ernest Borel Automatic Mens' Cocktail Watch's kaleidoscope discs elevated by a Q.R. Brown CrocoCalf (Italian Croco Grain) Watch Strap
Historical Background of Mystery Dials
The mastermind behind the mystery dial concept is Jean-Eugène Robert-Houdin. The usual first reaction to seeing a mystery dial is that there´s some magic involved in its operation since the hands seem to be floating without any attachment to the dial. That impression is not surprising since this 19th-century Frenchman was, in fact, both a famous magician and a crafted watchmaker, with a watchmaking tradition firmly installed in his family history.
Mystery Watch (Montre mystérieuse), circa 1889, held at the Watch Museum of Le Locle, Switzerland. This remarkable timepiece features the illusion of floating hands with no visible mechanical connection, a design innovation of the 19th century. Image source: Wikipedia.
It comes naturally that such an authentic sort of magical appearance and idea behind the concept and embodiment of the mystery dial came out of the mind of a person of such background and interests. His mystery clocks are still very sought after and regularly go for 5 figures at specialized auctions.
These clocks inspired mystery wristwatches, as well, and many brands used and popularized mystery dials in their own interpretation. The most notable ones are those made by Jaeger-LeCoultre - the Galaxy Mistery, Cartier - the Rotonde de Cartier, and Longines' 14K Gold Mystery Dial and Comet. The Longines are displayed here as a portrayal of different styles of mystery dials that come even in the catalog of a single watchmaking company.
The simplicity and elegance of the transparent Longines 14K
Gold Mystery Dial manual wind vintage watch. Image source:
Wikipedia
Vintage Longines Comet double circle magic dial with an invisible
minute hand, image source: wornandwound.com
There are also modern watchmaking companies that make fascinating mystery dial wristwatches, which is proof that their magic is still captivating after so many years since they appeared on the watchmaking map. Maurice Lacroix and Konstantin Chaykin are particularly notable among contemporary watchmakers for their mystery dial wristwatches.
The Mechanics of Mystery Dials
Now, how do these dials of magical appearance, in fact, operate? The floating hands' effect, i.e., the illusion that the hands on the dial operate midair and seemingly without any attachment to the dial or the mechanism behind it, is certainly the most captivating impression mystery dials make. The trick behind it is rather simple, which is usually the case with the most successful illusions. The secret lies in hands being attached to the transparent discs that have hidden toothed edges and practically interact with the mechanism in the same manner as regular mechanical watches do.
The depth of the Ernest Borel Cocktail Watch mystery dial and the floating hands effect are additionally emphasized when paired with a Q.R. Black Sailcloth Watch Band with leather lining
There's another touch of pristine craftsmanship present in most representable mystery dials-their mechanisms are also hidden, that is, they are not in their usual place. When clocks are concerned, the mechanisms are located in a separate chamber, usually inside the base. In wristwatches, the trick is executed by housing the caliber within an offset dial positioned on one side of the main dial.
A kind of magic, right? Right, but that of an innovation and outstanding watchmaking craft. After all, such a touch of ingeniosity is what makes them stand out and attract fans for centuries now.
Ernest Borel Automatic Men's Cocktail Watch
Here's a great example of a mystery dial in all its glory. This watch is part of the Ernest Borel Cocktail series, launched in the 1950s and still in production today. The Cocktail series is their most prolific and popular series, particularly the models that feature a kaleidoscope dial.
Ernest Borel Automatic Mens' Cocktail Watch radiates a casual vibe when paired with a Camel Brown MiLTAT Nubuck Leather Watch Strap
The particular one featured here is a modern version of the kaleidoscope dial Cocktail watch, with a downsized kaleidoscope portion of the dial and an automatic mechanism. The kaleidoscope effect is achieved in the same manner as it was the case with the original models. There are two clear plastic discs with the same graphic pattern featured underneath the crystal glass. One is stationary, and the other is connected to the center pinion and turns simultaneously with the sweep second hand, thus creating the moving kaleidoscope effect when its pattern rotates underneath the stationary disc.
Only the tips of the hands are visible, elevating the magical effect to an even greater level, and the clear outer ring of the dial enhances it further. The date complication at 6 o'clock adds a touch of business appeal, while the golden case instills a classy feel.
To complete the overall attractivity, all listed features make this intriguing a genuine chameleon when it comes to various strap pairings, particularly with materials like leather, sailcloth, and mesh. Additionally, the smaller case of this Cocktail watch (a perfectly normal size for men's watches back then) allows for an even greater variety of matching straps. When carefully chosen, these straps can further enhance the already present strong aesthetic appeal of this Ernest Borel Cocktail watch and turn it into an all-rounder that feels at home in any situation, from formal to everyday and casual occasions alike.
Ernest Borel Automatic Mens' Cocktail Watch achieves the ultimate level of elegance when its golden case shade is perfectly matched by the Classic Superfine Mesh Watch Strap in Full IP Gold
Conclusion
The allure of mystery dial watches continues to linger in modern times. The concept of floating hands and a hidden mechanism has always managed to find its way to new fans and watchmakers throughout the centuries, and we can eagerly await their new and original design ideas.
If you're also intrigued by this fascinating category in watchmaking, there's no better time than now to explore it and consider adding a mystery dial piece such as Ernesto Borel, or any other for that matter, to your collection.
Written by S.K., images by Toni and others as noted
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