Seiko Prospex SPB481, SPB483, SPB485: The Affordable Octagonal Royal Oak Alternative

As a professional watch photographer with nearly 9 years in the field and an avid Seiko collector, I'm always on the lookout for timepieces that resonate with my passion. Seiko's Prospex line has long been renowned for its durability and exceptional performance, and the recently introduced SPB481, SPB483, and SPB485 dive watches have truly caught my eye. These three models not only represent a breakthrough in design but also make no compromises in performance, sure to satisfy discerning watch enthusiasts.

Unique Octagonal Bezel Design

The most striking feature of the SPB481, SPB483, and SPB485 is undoubtedly their innovative octagonal bezel design. Seiko, known for its classic dive watch designs, has boldly adopted this octagonal shape, marking a significant departure from tradition. This design evokes both vintage charm and modern sensibility, reminiscent of iconic timepieces like the A.P. Royal Oak. However, Seiko hasn't simply imitated; they've integrated the octagonal bezel into the Prospex series DNA, creating a distinctive "SeikOak". The eight edges are smoothly rounded, flowing naturally and blending perfectly with the case.

A side-by-side comparison of the complete Seiko Prospex SPB48x series, showcasing the distinct octagonal bezels and varied dial colors of the SPB481J1 (ivory), SPB483J1 (blue), and SPB485J1 (brown)

Exquisite Craftsmanship and Details

Beyond the unique octagonal bezel, these three Prospex divers excel in their attention to detail. The 41.3mm case with a thickness of 12.5mm is well-proportioned, suitable for most men's wrists. The stainless steel case features brushed and polished finishes, creating a rich sense of depth. The dial is protected by a sapphire crystal, known for its scratch-resistant properties. The wave pattern on the dial, inspired by coastal scenery, adds a touch of elegance to the watch. The The new Seiko Prospex models offer three distinct color options. The SPB481 features an ivory dial with a black bezel, exuding a vintage aura. The SPB483 pairs a blue dial with a blue bezel, evoking the depth and mystery of the ocean. The SPB485 combines a brown dial with a copper bezel, embodying a strong vintage style. All three models have hands and hour markers coated with LumiBrite luminous paint, ensuring clear readability in dark environments.

The Seiko Prospex SPB483J1 featuring its striking blue dial and
matching octagonal bezel, exemplifying the collection's modern
interpretation of the classic dive watch design.

The Seiko Prospex SPB481J1 with its vintage-inspired ivory dial
and black octagonal bezel, displaying the model's distinctive
blend of retro and contemporary elements.

Outstanding Performance

As professional dive watches, the SPB481, SPB483, and SPB485 excel in performance. They boast a water resistance of 300 meters, suitable for various water activities. The unidirectional rotating bezel allows divers to easily track dive times. Screw-down crown and caseback further enhance the watch's water resistance. The watches are powered by Seiko's 6R55 automatic movement, offering a 72-hour power reserve. This movement features a hacking seconds function for precise time setting.

Comparison with Peer Brands

In their price range of approximately $1,300-1,500 USD, the SPB481, SPB483, and SPB485 face interesting competition. Notable alternatives include the Doxa Sub 200 ($990), Oris Divers Sixty-Five ($2,200), and Zodiac Super Sea Wolf 53 ($1,395). While the Doxa offers distinctive vintage aesthetics with its cushion case and the Oris brings Swiss heritage with its retro charm, the Seiko Prospex series stands out with its superior lume performance, in-house 6R55 movement with 72-hour power reserve, and higher water resistance at 300m.

A macro detail shot of the Seiko Prospex SPB483J1's blue dial and octagonal bezel, highlighting the refined finishing and angular facets that define this collection's unique aesthetic.

From my experience photographing these watches, the SPB48x series features well-executed brushed and polished finishes that create attractive light play, particularly on the faceted octagonal bezel. This angular case design presents unique visual characteristics that distinguish it from the more common circular bezels found in this segment. The Seiko delivers exceptional value through its combination of innovative design, robust build quality, and reliable in-house movement - aspects that I've come to appreciate both as a photographer capturing their details and as a collector wearing them.

What Watch Enthusiasts Are Saying

The collection has sparked widespread discussion on various watch forums and social media platforms. Many enthusiasts praise the unique octagonal bezel design, viewing it as a bold attempt by Seiko in design innovation. Naturally, some enthusiasts have different opinions about the bezel shape and dial design. Overall, the SPB481, SPB483, and SPB485 are conversation starters, and regardless of personal preference, their design innovation is undeniable. 

Conclusion

The Seiko Prospex SPB481, SPB483, and SPB485 are dive watches that combine unique design, exquisite craftsmanship, and outstanding performance. If you're looking for a watch that stands out from the crowd, the SPB48x series are definitely worth considering. Whether for daily wear or water activities, they allow you to showcase your unique taste and style.

Written by Toni, images by others as noted

External Reference :

• The New, Oddly Octagonal Seiko Prospex Diver’s SPB481, SPB483 and SPB485
• The Seiko Prospex SPB481, SPB483, SPB485 Divers